How to Identify High-Quality Used Excavator Parts Without Getting Screwed

A No-BS, Dirt-Under-Your-Fingernails Guide for Operators Who Actually Use Their Machines

Let’s face it—buying used excavator parts can feel a bit like online dating. The photos look decent, the description sounds promising, but when the part arrives… let’s just say, it’s not what you expected. Sometimes, it’s downright catastrophic. Cracks, leaks, wear deeper than your granddad’s old leather boots, and suddenly your wallet is lighter and your excavator is still dead in the dirt.

At Vikfin, we’ve heard all the horror stories. Hell, we’ve rescued plenty of customers from the aftermath. So we figured, why not arm you with the tools to spot a quality used excavator part before you hand over your hard-earned cash?

Here’s your no-fluff, slightly cheeky, grease-stained guide to identifying quality used excavator parts—so you don’t get screwed.

1. Start With the Obvious: Visual Inspection

Yes, we know—this sounds stupidly simple. But you’d be surprised how many folks skip it.

Look for:

• Cracks or welds: These are not “character marks.” They’re red flags.

• Corrosion: Surface rust is okay. Deep rust that flakes off like old paint? Not so much.

• Missing bolts or bent flanges: If it looks like it was recovered from a scrapyard apocalypse, it probably was.

👀 Pro Tip: Always ask for high-res photos from multiple angles if you’re buying online. Blurry, low-light shots = someone hiding something.

2. Check for OEM Markings or Serial Numbers

You want a part that comes from a real machine, not something that fell off a boat and got sandblasted back into existence.

Why it matters:

• OEM markings mean the part is manufacturer-approved.

• Serial numbers allow you to trace its origin and compatibility.

• No markings? You’re probably looking at a knockoff or Franken-part.

🧠 Fun Fact: Some shady sellers literally grind off serial numbers. That’s a bigger red flag than a flashing check engine light.

3. Wear and Tear—But the Right Kind

Let’s be clear—used parts are used. You’re not getting showroom shine. But there’s a difference between normal wear and parts that look like they’ve been through three world wars and a demolition derby.

Acceptable wear:

• Smooth scuff marks

• Slight discoloration

• Normal bushing play

Not acceptable:

• Elongated holes

• Deep gouges

• Warped metal

• Bearing play you can see from across the yard

👃 Sniff Test: If it smells like burning oil or death, walk away.

4. Hydraulics – The Deal-Breakers

Hydraulic components like pumps, motors, and valves are high-risk. One bad seal and you’ve got a fluid-spewing nightmare.

What to check:

• No visible leaks – none, zero, nada.

• Clean ports – not packed with gunk.

• Shafts spin smoothly – no grinding or tight spots.

⚙️ Smart Move: Bring a hand pump or pressure tester if you’re buying in person. You don’t need CSI-level tools, just enough to ensure the part isn’t internally wrecked.

5. Final Drives – The Sneaky Bastards

Final drives are one of the most commonly replaced—and commonly misrepresented—used parts.

🔍 Look for:

• Metal shavings in drain plugs

• Loose or clunky planetary gears

• Output shaft wobble

If it sounds like a can of marbles when you spin it, run.

🧪 Advanced Tip: Pull the inspection cover if possible. It’s the mechanical equivalent of looking under the mattress.

6. Booms, Arms, and Buckets – Bigger Ain’t Always Better

These parts can look fine from ten feet away, but up close you might find:

• Hairline fractures

• Shoddy weld repairs

• Misaligned pin holes

🏗️ Reality Check: If someone “repaired” a cracked boom with a MIG welder and chewing gum, you don’t want it.

7. Track Frames & Undercarriages – The Dirt Nap Test

These parts live in the dirt. They get abused. So pay special attention.

Watch for:

• Bent track frames (measure!)

• Worn sprockets

• Cracked rollers

📏 Hack: Bring a tape measure. Compare bolt hole spacing to OEM spec. If it’s off, the frame may have taken a hit—or five.

8. Bushings and Pins – The Unsung Heroes

Sloppy pins equal sloppy machines.

Here’s what matters:

• Bushing should fit snugly. Not tight like your jeans after Christmas, but not loose like your cousin’s morals.

• Pins shouldn’t rattle. If you can hear them wiggle, they’re toast.

🔧 Fixable? Maybe. But factor in machine downtime and re-bushing labor before you “save money.”

9. Cooling Systems – Crack is Wack

Radiators, oil coolers, and intercoolers should not look like they were used in a Mad Max movie.

Look for:

• Fin damage

• Cracks in tanks

• Evidence of epoxy “fixes”

🚿 Water Trick: Plug one side, fill with water. If it leaks, it’s junk. Simple.

10. Engine Parts – The Heart of the Beast

Used engines are a gamble, but you can hedge your bets.

Check:

• Compression test results

• Clean oil

• No visible gasket leaks

• Even cylinder wear

🔩 Double Down: Ask for a video of the engine running. If it knocks like a Jehovah’s Witness at 6AM, move on.

11. Electrical Components – AKA The Black Magic Box

Solenoids, ECUs, harnesses… they’re often overlooked, and often a waste of time when used.

⚡ If it’s not tested and tagged working, don’t buy it unless you like Russian roulette with your diagnostics.

12. Ask Where It Came From (Really)

Always ask:

• Was it tested?

• Was it pulled from a working machine?

• What failed on the machine it came from?

🎤 If they can’t tell you squat, they probably don’t know—or worse, they do know and don’t want to say.

13. Don’t Trust the Paint Job

A fresh coat of paint is like cologne on a first date: it’s covering something. Usually bad.

🖌️ Rule of Thumb: If the part looks too pretty, it probably isn’t. Scrape a corner with your fingernail. See what’s underneath.

14. Check the Threads (No, Not Your Instagram Feed)

Threads on bolts and ports should be:

• Clean

• Sharp

• Free of cross-threading or weld blobs

🪛 Stripped threads = junk. Always.

15. Compatibility: Close Enough Isn’t Good Enough

Yes, some parts are interchangeable across models or brands. But guesswork can kill your machine—or your budget.

📚 Check compatibility using OEM part numbers. No part number? Ask a pro (like the guys at Vikfin).

16. Buy From Reputable Suppliers (Cough, Vikfin, Cough)

This is obvious but worth saying: if you’re buying parts from “Some Guy on Facebook,” you’re playing with fire.

✅ What to look for in a supplier:

• Track record of honest sales

• Actual inventory (not brokering someone else’s junk)

• Ability to test parts

• Customer service that doesn’t ghost you

17. Get a Warranty—Even If It’s Small

Even a 30-day test window gives you peace of mind.

📃 If they offer no warranty whatsoever, ask yourself why. Are they confident it works, or do they just want it out of their life?

18. Trust Your Gut (and Nose and Ears)

Weird noises? Bad smells? Sketchy seller? Walk away. The best operators and mechanics we know all swear by the gut test. It's the sixth sense of the spanner-wielding world.

19. Beware the Franken-Part

Sometimes parts are cobbled together from two or more other parts. This sounds cool until you realize nothing fits right.

🧟‍♂️ Signs of Frankenstein parts:

• Misaligned bolt holes

• Welded-on brackets

• Incompatible materials

Avoid like expired mayonnaise.

20. Don’t Be Afraid to Ask Dumb Questions

The only dumb question is the one you didn’t ask that cost you R20,000 in downtime.

Ask:

• “Has this been tested?”

• “What machine did it come from?”

• “What’s your return policy?”

• “Can I see a video of it working?”

🎯 Good sellers will answer. Great sellers (like us) will anticipate the question.

Final Thoughts: Don’t Get Shafted (Unless It’s a Good Driveshaft)

Used parts can save you a ton of money—but only if you know what you’re looking at. If you wouldn’t let a dodgy dude sell you a used parachute, don’t let him sell you a used hydraulic pump.

At Vikfin, we live and breathe used excavator parts. We don’t just flip scrap—we test, inspect, and stand behind what we sell. And we’re not afraid to tell you when something’s junk.

So next time you're in the market for a used part, bring this guide, a sharp eye, and maybe a mechanic buddy with trust issues. Your wallet (and your machine) will thank you.

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Want help finding a solid part? Get in touch with the Vikfin crew. We’re here to help you dig smarter, not harder.