top of page
Search

How to Repaint Your Excavator: A Step-by-Step Guide

  • Writer: RALPH COPE
    RALPH COPE
  • Mar 23
  • 7 min read

Updated: Mar 29



Repainting your excavator is more than just a cosmetic upgrade. A fresh coat of paint can help protect against rust, extend the machine’s life, and even help with resale value. While it’s a big job, it can be done successfully by following the right process and using the correct materials.


Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace

What You Need:

  • A large, well-ventilated area (preferably indoors or under cover)

  • Drop cloths or plastic sheeting to protect surrounding areas

  • Adequate lighting

  • Safety gear (respirator mask, gloves, goggles, overalls)

Tips:

  • If you're working outdoors, choose a dry day with minimal wind.

  • Make sure there's no risk of dust or debris settling on the wet paint.


Step 2: Clean the Excavator Thoroughly

Steps:

  1. Remove dirt, grease, and grime using a high-pressure washer.

  2. Apply a degreaser to oily areas, particularly around the engine bay, undercarriage, and hydraulic components.

  3. Let the excavator dry completely before proceeding.

Tip: This is one of the most important steps. Dirt or grease left behind will prevent the paint from sticking.


Step 3: Remove Loose Paint and Rust

Tools:

  • Wire brush

  • Angle grinder with a wire wheel or sanding disc

  • Sandpaper (80–120 grit for rough sanding, 220+ for final smoothing)

Steps:

  1. Strip away any flaking paint or rust spots using the wire brush or angle grinder.

  2. Sand down rough edges to smooth transitions between old paint and bare metal.

  3. Clean again to remove dust.


Step 4: Mask Off Areas That Shouldn’t Be Painted

Materials:

  • Painter’s tape

  • Heavy-duty masking paper or plastic

Areas to Mask:

  • Glass/windows

  • Lights

  • Hydraulic rams and seals

  • Decals you want to keep

  • Engine intake/exhaust

  • Tracks (optional)

Tip: Take your time with masking—overspray on hydraulic seals or glass can be a nightmare to remove.


Step 5: Apply Primer

Type of Primer:

  • Use a self-etching or epoxy-based primer for bare metal.

  • Use a rust-inhibiting primer if you're covering areas with minor rust.

Application:

  1. Use an airless spray gun or aerosol cans for small areas.

  2. Apply in thin, even coats.

  3. Let it cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually 6–12 hours).


Step 6: Sand the Primer Layer

After the primer dries, lightly sand it with 400–600 grit sandpaper to ensure a smooth base for the paint.

Tip: Wipe down the entire machine with a tack cloth or lint-free rag after sanding to remove dust.


Step 7: Apply the Base Coat (Main Color)

Paint Types:

  • Use urethane-based or acrylic enamel industrial paint.

  • Choose OEM colors if you're matching the original look (e.g., Caterpillar Yellow, Hitachi Orange, Komatsu Blue).

Application:

  1. Use a spray gun or heavy-duty aerosol cans.

  2. Apply 2–3 light coats, allowing each coat to flash off (become tacky) before applying the next.

  3. Let the final coat dry for at least 12 hours (preferably 24) before moving on.

Pro Tip: Avoid thick coats—they’re more prone to runs, drips, and poor curing.


Step 8: Apply Clear Coat (Optional but Recommended)

Why Apply Clear Coat?

  • Provides UV protection.

  • Adds a glossy finish and enhances durability.

  • Makes future cleaning easier.

Application:

  1. Apply 1–2 coats of automotive or industrial-grade clear coat.

  2. Allow at least 24 hours for curing.


Step 9: Remove Masking and Do Touch-ups

Once the paint is dry to the touch:

  1. Carefully remove all masking tape and paper.

  2. Use a small brush or aerosol touch-up paint to cover any missed spots.


Step 10: Let the Paint Cure Fully

  • Let the excavator sit for at least 48–72 hours before heavy use.

  • Full curing can take up to 7 days depending on humidity and temperature.


Optional: Add Decals or Company Branding

Once the paint is fully cured:

  • Apply any decals or stickers (OEM or custom).

  • You can also spray stencil logos using vinyl stencils for a more permanent finish.


Materials Checklist

  • Pressure washer and degreaser

  • Wire brush, grinder, and sanding tools

  • Painter’s tape and masking material

  • Primer (self-etching or rust-inhibiting)

  • Paint (urethane or enamel)

  • Clear coat (optional)

  • Spray gun or industrial aerosol cans

  • Respirator mask and PPE

  • Tack cloths


Safety Considerations

  • Always wear a respirator and protective clothing when sanding or spraying paint.

  • Work in a well-ventilated area or use a spray booth if available.

  • Dispose of paint waste and solvent-soaked rags responsibly.


Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping prep: Dirty or rusty surfaces will ruin your paint job.

  • Spraying too thick: Leads to runs and uneven texture.

  • Not letting paint cure fully: Can cause paint to peel or scratch easily.

  • Ignoring weather: Wind, humidity, or rain can wreck your work.


Final Thoughts

Repainting your excavator takes time, effort, and a bit of know-how, but the results can be well worth it. Not only will your machine look better, but it’ll also be better protected against the elements. And if you’re selling or renting out the excavator, a professional-looking coat of paint goes a long way in giving buyers confidence.


🟨 The Best Paint to Use When Repainting Your Excavator (And Why It’s Worth Doing Right)

An excavator isn't just a machine—it’s a statement. Whether it’s caked in mud on a job site or parked proudly outside your plant hire yard, how your excavator looks matters more than you think. A fresh coat of paint can make an old workhorse look brand new, boost resale value, protect against rust, and keep your fleet looking professional.


But not all paints are created equal. Repainting your excavator with the wrong paint can lead to flaking, fading, or rust rearing its ugly head again far too soon. So let’s get into what the best paint is for your excavator, why it matters, and how to apply it the right way.


🎨 Why Repaint an Excavator?

Before we talk paint types, let’s explore why people even bother repainting their machines:

  • Aesthetic appeal: A freshly painted machine makes your company look more professional and reliable.

  • Rust prevention: Scratches and chips invite rust. Paint acts as a protective shield.

  • Higher resale value: A clean machine fetches more on the used market.

  • Brand identity: Match your company’s colour scheme across your fleet.


💡 What Kind of Paint Should You Use?

Not just any hardware store paint will do. Excavators operate in extreme conditions—mud, rain, sun, stone chips—so the paint you choose must be tough enough to handle it all.


✅ Best Paint Option: 2K Urethane Paint

Why it wins:

  • Extremely durable and long-lasting

  • Resistant to chemicals, oils, and UV rays

  • High-gloss finish that holds its shine

  • Excellent adhesion on metal surfaces

  • Can be color-matched to OEM standards

Downside:

  • Requires a hardener/activator to cure

  • Must be sprayed with proper PPE and ventilation

Pro tip: Brands like PPG, Axalta, DeBeer, and R-M all manufacture high-grade 2K urethane paints commonly used in industrial and automotive applications.


👌 Good Alternative: Alkyd Enamel Paint

If budget is tight or the machine isn’t used too aggressively, alkyd enamel is a more forgiving and affordable choice.

Pros:

  • Easier to apply

  • Air dries without hardeners

  • Decent durability for moderate use

Cons:

  • Shorter lifespan than 2K paints

  • Prone to fading in direct sun

  • Less resistance to harsh chemicals


🚫 Paints to Avoid

  • Water-based paints: Eco-friendly, sure—but not tough enough for construction equipment unless protected by a topcoat.

  • Cheap aerosol cans: Tempting for touch-ups, but won’t bond well or last on large panels.

  • Household paint: Not designed for metal or harsh outdoor conditions.


🛠️ Prepping the Surface – The Most Important Step

Even the best paint will fail if you apply it over rust or grime. Proper prep is everything.

1. Degrease

Use a dedicated industrial degreaser to remove oil, diesel, and grime.

2. Strip loose paint

Use a wire brush, sandblaster, or grinder to remove flaking paint and rust.

3. Sand the surface

Create a surface profile with 80–120 grit sandpaper for good adhesion.

4. Apply a primer

Use an epoxy primer for best adhesion and corrosion resistance. Red oxide or zinc phosphate primers are also common in the industry.


🎯 Application Tips

  • Use a spray gun for even coverage—rollers and brushes can leave streaks.

  • Spray multiple thin coats, allowing drying time between each layer.

  • Temperature matters: Ideal painting temps are 15–30°C with low humidity.

  • Use PPE: Especially when working with 2K paints. They contain isocyanates and other chemicals that require proper respiratory protection.

  • Don’t forget the undercarriage: Rust loves to hide here.


🎨 Color Matching: Stick to OEM or Go Custom?

  • OEM colors (Caterpillar yellow, Hitachi orange, Komatsu blue-grey, etc.) are readily available from major paint suppliers. This keeps your fleet uniform and professional.

  • Want to stand out? You can custom mix any shade—just be aware it could hurt resale value down the line.


🧰 Touch-Up Paint: What to Keep on Hand

Even after a full respray, dings happen. Keep a small supply of:

  • Paint thinner for cleaning

  • 1L of touch-up paint

  • Small foam rollers or spray cans

  • Rust converter for spot treatment


🛑 Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping primer: Paint will peel within weeks.

  • Painting over grease or oil: Leads to blistering and bubbling.

  • Not removing all rust: It will continue to eat away under the paint.

  • Painting in the wind: Dust will ruin your finish.

  • Not allowing proper curing time: Paint can remain soft and easy to damage.


💸 Final Thoughts: What Will It Cost?

Paint Type

Approx. Cost (ZAR) per Litre

Coverage per Litre

Notes

2K Urethane

R400–R800

8–10 m²

Requires hardener

Alkyd Enamel

R150–R300

10–12 m²

Easier to apply

Epoxy Primer

R300–R600

6–8 m²

Needed before topcoat

Add in sandpaper, primer, thinners, safety gear, and you're looking at R4,000 to R8,000 for a DIY full machine paint job—still far cheaper than hiring a professional respray.


🚧 Final Word: A Painted Excavator Is a Respected Excavator

Taking the time to repaint your excavator not only protects your asset but also speaks volumes about your work ethic and attention to detail. Whether you're refreshing the fleet, preparing a machine for resale, or just want it looking sharp again, choosing the right paint—and applying it properly—makes all the difference.


And remember: paint is the excavator's first line of defense. Choose wisely. Prep thoroughly. Apply like a pro.



#ExcavatorRepaint#HeavyEquipmentRestoration#MachineMakeover#ExcavatorUpgrade#PlantMachineryCare#FreshCoatOfPaint#MachineRefurb#ConstructionEquipment#WorkshopVibes#EarthmoverGlowUp#ExcavatorLife#YellowBeast#HeavyGearRevamp#BrandNewLook#RustToRiches#RepaintProject#ExcavatorMaintenance#EquipmentDetailing#DIYRepaint#VikfinApproved

 
 
 

Comments


Workshop Locations

Durban: Bux Farm

Johannesburg: Benoni

Vikfin logo

Telephone/WhatsApp

083 639 1982 (Justin Cope) - Durban

071 351 9750 (Ralph Cope) - Johannesburg

©2019 by Vikfin (PTY) Ltd. 

bottom of page