How to Spot Genuine OEM Excavator Parts from Fakes

Because Your Machine Deserves the Real Deal, Not a Cheap Knock-Off

Let’s face it—South African contractors are some of the most resourceful, tough-as-nails people on the planet. You’ve wrestled with dodgy suppliers, danced around load-shedding schedules, and kept your machines running through everything from hail to heartbreak. But even the best of us can get duped when it comes to buying excavator parts.

Especially when those parts are used.

Because let’s be honest—out in the wilds of the used parts market, there are some proper cowboys selling so-called “OEM” parts that are about as real as a politician’s campaign promise.

So, how do you make sure you're getting genuine OEM parts—not a back-alley imitation that’s going to wreck your machine faster than a rookie operator on Red Bull?

Buckle up. Here’s your no-nonsense, slightly sarcastic guide to spotting real OEM excavator parts from the fakes.

First, What Even Is an OEM Part?

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. That means the part was built by the same company that made the original machine—or one of their trusted, licensed suppliers.

Real OEM parts are:

• Designed to exact specs

• Made from premium materials

• Reliable under pressure

• Expensive (for a reason)

Fake or aftermarket parts, on the other hand:

• Might look similar on the surface

• Usually cost less (yay!)

• Often fail faster (boo!)

• Can cause expensive damage to your machine (very boo)

Now let’s get into the juicy stuff—how to spot the fakes before they sink your wallet.

1. Check for Serial Numbers and Part Numbers

This is your first and most important step. Real OEM parts almost always have a stamped, engraved, or laser-etched part number—and often a serial number as well.

What to look for:

• Permanent markings, not stickers

• Clean, professional engraving

• Numbers that match OEM databases

If the number looks like it was done with a Sharpie or a wood-burning kit from a flea market, walk away.

Pro Tip:Take the part number and plug it into the manufacturer's website or catalog. If nothing comes up, you’re likely looking at a fake or a very “creative” aftermarket part.

2. Inspect Casting Marks and Logos

Genuine OEM parts often have:

• Casting marks that include a logo, date, and mold number

• Embossed or engraved brand names (Volvo, Caterpillar, Komatsu, etc.)

• Consistent fonts and logos across all markings

Fake parts may:

• Have no markings at all

• Have spelling errors (seriously—“Volvoo”?)

• Use cheap stickers that rub off with a finger swipe

• Use incorrect or outdated logos

If the branding looks like it was slapped on with a potato stamp, it’s a fake.

3. Examine the Material Quality

This is where the fakes really start to fall apart—literally.

OEM parts are engineered using high-grade steel, alloys, and precision manufacturing processes. Knock-offs, on the other hand, often use:

• Softer metals

• Porous casting

• Inferior welding

• Cheaper seals, bearings, and o-rings

Look for:

• Uniform surface finish (no pitting or flaking)

• Weight – fakes are often too light or oddly heavy

• Sharp, clean machining lines

If it looks like it was built in a hurry by a guy with a hacksaw and dreams, steer clear.

4. Feel the Fit and Finish

OEM parts don’t just “sort of” fit—they snap into place like they were born there.

If your part:

• Needs grinding, bending, or hammering to install

• Has sloppy tolerances or gaps

• Makes weird noises when operating

...then it’s either fake or defective. Either way, not worth the risk.

Pro Tip:Fit the part (even loosely) before buying. If it doesn’t align properly with bolt holes, shafts, or seals, it’s probably not OEM.

5. Ask About the Source (and Watch Their Eyes)

Any reputable supplier should be able to tell you:

• Where the part came from (e.g., stripped from a working machine)

• How many hours it has

• What machine model it was originally used on

• Whether it’s been reconditioned or inspected

If the seller gets cagey, changes the subject, or starts explaining why “branding isn’t important,” walk away faster than load-shedding at 6:01 p.m.

A real OEM part has a history. A fake has a story.

6. Compare It to a Known OEM Part

If possible, bring the original part you're replacing and lay them side by side. Ask yourself:

• Do the castings look the same?

• Are the bolt patterns identical?

• Are the mounting points in the same position?

• Are the dimensions exactly right?

Even small differences—like an extra ridge, a shorter shaft, or mismatched threads—can mean big problems later.

If it’s “close enough,” it’s not OEM.

7. Beware of Too-Good-To-Be-True Prices

You know this one already, but it bears repeating.

If someone offers you a part that normally sells for R50,000 and they’re flogging it for R7,000... it’s either:

• Fake

• Stolen

• Broken

• About to cost you ten times that in damage

The market isn’t full of saints trying to do you favours. Real OEM parts hold their value. Used ones can be fairly priced, yes—but not magically cheap.

8. Ask for a Warranty or Return Policy

Reputable used part suppliers will stand by what they sell. Many offer:

• Testing on-site

• Operational guarantees

• Limited warranties

Dodgy sellers, on the other hand, will vanish faster than a contractor on payday once the part fails.

If they won’t back the part with anything, it’s not worth the gamble.

9. Use a Trusted Supplier (Like Vikfin, Wink Wink)

This one’s easy. Skip the hassle, skip the risk—buy from a supplier who only deals in genuine OEM parts and knows their machines.

At Vikfin, for example:

• We strip, inspect, and test every part

• We only stock parts from trusted OEMs like Volvo, Cat, Doosan, and Komatsu

• We label and catalogue everything

• And yes, we offer warranties

We’ve got the inventory, the expertise, and the greasy hands to prove it.

10. Bonus Tip: Beware of Refurbished Fakes

Here’s the next-level trickery. Some fakes aren’t new—they’re bad parts refurbished to look legit. They might:

• Have repainted housings

• Fake serial numbers

• Used old OEM casings but cheap internal components

Looks can deceive, especially with a fresh coat of industrial grey paint.

The only way to catch these is through:

• Testing

• Disassembly

• Buying from someone who’s already done both

What Happens If You Use a Fake Part?

Let’s play this out.

You buy a fake hydraulic pump. It looks okay. You install it. The seals blow after 50 hours. It leaks. Contaminated fluid damages your cylinders. Your entire hydraulic system goes down. You lose a week of production, R200k in repairs, and possibly your will to live.

All to save R8,000 on the pump?

Nah. Not worth it.

Real-Life Red Flags (We’ve Actually Seen These)

• A “Volvo” final drive with the letters “VLOVO”

• Part numbers scribbled in marker

• Stickers peeling off to reveal another brand underneath

• A supplier who says, “OEM, aftermarket, same thing, bru.”

• A turbo housing that was visibly JB Welded together

If your gut is telling you something’s off... listen to it. Your machine (and your bank account) will thank you.

Conclusion: Buy Smart or Pay Big

At the end of the day, buying used excavator parts doesn’t have to be a gamble. If you know what to look for—and where to buy—you can get genuine OEM quality at a fraction of the cost.

So remember:

• Check the markings

• Inspect the quality

• Ask the right questions

• Don’t fall for shady deals

• Use a reputable supplier who knows their spares

Because the only thing worse than a broken excavator… is a “fixed” excavator that breaks again next week.

Need Genuine OEM Parts You Can Trust?

Vikfin is your go-to source for used OEM excavator parts in South Africa. We don’t mess around with fakes, clones, or cheap imports. Just real parts from real machines, ready to get back to work.

Final drives, swing motors, engines, pumps—you name it, we’ve stripped it, tested it, and stocked it.

Give us a call and let’s get your machine moving again.

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