When it comes to keeping your excavator running at its best, there’s always a balance to strike between cost and quality. New parts are expensive—sometimes eye-wateringly so—and the waiting times for special orders can cripple a job site. This is where the smart move comes in: buying used parts.

But not all excavator parts are created equal when it comes to the secondhand market. Some wear out fast. Some are nearly impossible to refurbish properly. And then there are others—the golden seven—that, when bought wisely, can save you a fortune without sacrificing performance.

Here are the top 7 excavator parts that are better bought used, and exactly what to look for before you hand over your hard-earned cash.

1. Hydraulic Cylinders

Why They're Great Used:Hydraulic cylinders are built like tanks. As long as the main structure isn’t cracked or severely pitted, they can often be reconditioned with fresh seals and polishing. Buying a quality secondhand cylinder and giving it a minor refurb is way cheaper than splurging on brand-new.

What to Inspect:

Rod Condition: Look for scratches, dents, or corrosion. Minor flaws can be polished out; deep gouges are a no-go.
Seals: Expect to replace them—but if you see fresh seals already installed, that's a bonus.
Movement: Extend and retract the rod. It should move smoothly without binding or "gritty" feedback.
Leaks: Any visible oil leaks are a sign that immediate seal replacement is necessary.

Pro Tip: If the cylinder has already been resealed and pressure-tested by a reputable seller like Vikfin, you’re getting a near-new part at a fraction of the cost.

2. Final Drives

Why They're Great Used:The final drive—the heart of your excavator’s travel system—is tough. Good used final drives that haven’t been abused can last thousands of hours. Better yet, rebuilt units are often sold with warranties, offering even more peace of mind.

What to Inspect:

Exterior Damage: Look for cracks, missing bolts, or welded patches (bad sign).
Shaft Play: Rotate the input shaft and check for unusual looseness or grinding.
Gear Oil: If possible, ask to check the oil. Milky oil means water ingress—avoid at all costs.
Past Repairs: Ask the seller if the unit was rebuilt. A properly rebuilt drive is often better than a poorly manufactured new one.

Pro Tip: Final drives often fail from poor maintenance, not age. Find one from a machine with good service records if possible.

3. Booms and Sticks (Arms)

Why They're Great Used:Excavator booms and sticks are simply large, heavy, welded steel structures. Unless they’ve been physically bent, cracked, or rusted through, they can be sandblasted, painted, and reused with confidence.

What to Inspect:

Cracks: Pay close attention around welds and pivot points. Hairline cracks can grow into catastrophic failures.
Weld Repairs: A clean, professional weld can be stronger than the original steel. Sloppy backyard welding? Walk away.
Pins and Bushings: Inspect the pinholes for elongation or oval shapes. Worn holes can be repaired, but it's an added cost.
Corrosion: Surface rust is fine. Deep pitting, especially around load-bearing areas, is not.

Pro Tip: If you're buying a boom or stick from Vikfin, ask about their inspection process. Their team ensures no cracks, bends, or major flaws before listing parts for sale.

4. Buckets

Why They're Great Used:Buckets are brutally simple. They're big hunks of steel designed to take a beating. A secondhand bucket that’s still structurally sound can easily last for years.

What to Inspect:

Edges and Teeth: Worn teeth are replaceable. Look at the cutting edge—if it’s worn too thin, it might not be worth repairing.
Cracks: Check around weld seams and high-stress areas like the top corners.
Mounting Ears: The bracket where the bucket connects to the stick must not be bent or overly worn.
Size Match: Make sure the bucket size and coupler system match your machine specs.

Pro Tip: A bucket that's been freshly re-skinned (new wear plates welded on) is basically good as new—and still way cheaper than buying factory-fresh.

5. Track Frames

Why They're Great Used:Track frames are another heavy-duty, low-tech part. As long as the structure remains true and free from serious damage, a used track frame is a solid investment.

What to Inspect:

Straightness: Measure across several points to check for bending.
Cracks and Repairs: Look especially around welds, motor mounts, and idler brackets.
Mount Points: Bolt holes for attaching the frame to the body must be clean and intact.

Pro Tip: Minor surface rust is normal. Fresh paint might even cover rust—trust your measurements and inspections over cosmetics.

6. Main Control Valves

Why They're Great Used:Main control valves distribute hydraulic flow to the boom, arm, and bucket. As long as internal passageways aren't cracked or worn beyond repair, a used valve body with new seals is often just as good as a new one.

What to Inspect:

Leak Tests: If you can, buy from a seller who pressure-tests their valves.
Exterior Condition: Look for broken fittings or cracks around the valve body.
Functionality: Ask about the part’s history—units from machines retired for non-hydraulic issues (e.g., electrical problems) are often perfect.

Pro Tip: Replacing a control valve is a huge job, so spend a little more upfront for a thoroughly tested unit.

7. Swing Drives and Motors

Why They're Great Used:The swing drive (or swing motor) handles the rotation of the cab. They’re rugged and, when sourced properly, used ones are a steal compared to buying new.

What to Inspect:

Shaft Play: Check the output shaft for looseness.
Noise: If possible, listen to the motor running—grinding or clunking sounds spell trouble.
Leaks: Check around seals and bolt joints for any signs of hydraulic leakage.
Mounting Points: Ensure no cracks or breaks where the unit bolts to the frame.

Pro Tip: Buying a swing drive that’s been professionally rebuilt is often smarter than trying to gamble on an untested used unit.

Key Tips When Buying Used Excavator Parts

1. Buy From Reputable Suppliers.Anyone can list used parts online. Suppliers like Vikfin inspect, refurbish, and stand behind what they sell. This massively reduces your risk.

2. Always Ask About the Part’s History.Was it pulled from a wrecked machine, or a retired unit that was still running? Parts from worn-out machines are risky; parts from machines damaged in accidents (but still mechanically solid) are often a bargain.

3. Get a Warranty if Possible.Even a 30-day warranty shows that the seller is confident in what they’re offering. It also gives you time to install and test the part properly.

4. Factor in Reconditioning Costs.Buying a used hydraulic cylinder at a steal doesn’t save you money if it immediately needs a R10,000 rebuild. Budget for re-sealing, painting, or minor repairs.

5. Check Compatibility Thoroughly.Don’t assume “close enough” is good enough. Match part numbers, machine models, or measure everything carefully to avoid costly mistakes.

6. Inspect Before You Buy (If Possible).Pictures only tell part of the story. If you’re close enough, inspect in person—or at least ask for detailed close-up photos or a video showing key points.

Final Thoughts

In the right hands, used excavator parts are a powerful way to slash maintenance costs and keep your machine earning on site. Not every part should be bought used (you’re better off buying fresh rubber hoses and seals, for example), but for the heavy hitters—hydraulic cylinders, final drives, booms, buckets, and more—smart secondhand shopping is the name of the game.

At Vikfin, we specialise in sourcing, testing, and supplying high-quality used excavator parts across South Africa. Our inventory is constantly changing, so whether you need a final drive for a Komatsu, a boom for a CAT, or a control valve for a Hitachi, we've probably got exactly what you need—ready to ship and ready to work.

Looking for a specific part?Give us a call or drop us a message—our team of experts is ready to help you save time, money, and headaches.

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