How to Read a Used Excavator Part’s History Like a Pro

Because every part has a past—and some are dodgier than your ex.

Imagine buying a used final drive without checking its history.

That’s like marrying someone after a Tinder chat and one tequila-fueled date. You wouldn’t do it—unless you're on a Netflix docuseries.

Used excavator parts are no different. They’ve seen some things. Some were pampered and serviced religiously. Others? They spent years in the mud, got rebuilt in someone’s garage, and were last cleaned with a pressure washer and a prayer.

So how do you know what you’re really buying?

Simple. You learn to read the part’s history like a pro.

Let’s dig in—spade optional.

1: Why History Matters

Because “good condition” can mean a lot of different things… especially when the seller is dodgy.

A used excavator part is like a secondhand bakkie. On the outside? Looks decent. Inside? Could be running on borrowed time, sticky seals, and bolts torqued with a pipe wrench.

Knowing the part’s history helps you:

• Avoid parts with hidden issues

• Predict how much life it still has

• See if it’s been properly serviced or rebuilt

• Protect the rest of your machine from collateral damage

And most importantly? It keeps your arse (and your uptime) safe.

2: Where the Part Came From

Because it’s not just about what it is—it’s where it’s been.

Every used part has a backstory. It may have come from:

• A low-hour machine retired early

• A wrecked machine that got written off

• An overworked hire fleet unit held together with zip ties

• A “refurbishing” warehouse in the middle of nowhere (read: someone’s shed)

If your supplier can’t tell you where the part came from, be very suspicious.

Would you buy a used heart from a back-alley surgeon? No? Then don’t buy blind excavator parts either.

3: The Hour Meter Tells All

Or at least it should… if it wasn’t “accidentally reset.”

If you’re lucky, the part came off a machine with service logs and working hour meters. Ask:

• How many hours were on the donor machine?

• Was it used in mining (hard life) or landscaping (softer life)?

• Was it idle most of the time or worked like a rented mule?

A part with 4,000 easy hours is a very different beast from one with 12,000 hard ones.

More hours = more wear. More wear = more risk. Simple maths, chief.

4: Signs of a Shady Rebuild

The mechanical equivalent of a facelift done in the back of a combi.

Rebuilds can be amazing—or absolutely horrifying.

Ask your supplier:

• Was it rebuilt? By whom?

• Were OEM or aftermarket parts used?

• Are there service records or photos?

• Was it dyno tested or pressure tested?

Red flags include:🚩 New paint slapped on unevenly🚩 Silicone sealant oozing from weird places🚩 Loose bolts or mismatched fasteners🚩 The phrase “just needs a bit of love, boet”

If the rebuild looks like it was done with garden tools, run.

5: Ask for Testing Results

“It turns” isn’t a test. That’s a shrug in mechanical form.

Any quality part should be tested before sale. Minimum.

Testing = proof that:

• It holds pressure

• There are no leaks

• Internal components operate within spec

• There’s no grinding, knocking, or excessive backlash

Tests to ask for:✅ Pressure testing (for pumps, motors)✅ Flow testing✅ Bench testing under simulated load✅ Oil analysis (bonus points)

If your supplier can’t provide test data—or says “we don’t do that”—move on. Quickly.

6: Visual Clues Even You Can Spot

Don’t need to be Sherlock Holmes. Just look closer.

Even without a lab, you can learn a lot just by looking:

• Is there pitting, rust, or scoring?

• Any cracks, welds, or suspicious repairs?

• Are the gears chipped or unevenly worn?

• Are the seals brittle, cracked, or leaking?

Take a torch. Get dirty. Get curious.

If it looks like it lived through a war, it probably did.

7: Matching Part Numbers

It’s not a suggestion—it’s a compatibility lifeline.

Every part has a part number. If it doesn’t? Either it’s worn off or it never had one—which is not great.

Cross-check the number with your excavator’s:

• Make

• Model

• Serial number

• Year of manufacture

Don’t assume that “a Komatsu pump is a Komatsu pump.” It’s not.

Suppliers worth their salt will double-check this for you. If they don’t—or they get weird when you ask—it’s not a good sign.

Mismatched parts can kill performance—or worse, your whole machine.

8: The History of Ownership

Was this part passed around like a rugby ball?

Ask your supplier:

• Who owned it last?

• How many times has it changed hands?

• How long has it been in storage?

A part that’s been sitting under a tarp for 2 years may look “unused,” but seals dry out, rust forms, and gremlins move in.

You want a part with:✅ Minimal storage time✅ Known history✅ Limited previous installs

Too many hands = too many unknowns = too much risk.

9: Reputable Supplier = Better History

Dodgy dudes sell dodgy parts. It's a rule of life.

Let’s be blunt. Where you buy matters. A lot.

Reputable suppliers (like us at Vikfin):

• Track part origins

• Provide condition reports

• Test every major component

• Offer real warranties

• Give a damn

Fly-by-night sellers? Not so much.

If you’re buying from a guy who only sells via Facebook Marketplace and has a profile pic of a pitbull and a beer… maybe double-check the invoice.

10: Ask the Right Questions (Without Sounding Like a Tool)

Here’s a cheat sheet. Ask:

1. Where did the part come from?

2. How many hours were on the donor machine?

3. Was it rebuilt? If so, by whom and how?

4. Has it been tested? Can I see results?

5. What is the exact part number?

6. Does it have a warranty?

7. Can I see photos of the actual part?

If the answers sound like excuses, stories, or evasive nonsense—you’ve got your answer.

11: Bonus Tips From the Trenches

Real wisdom from guys who’ve learned the hard way.

🛠 Always ask for photos from multiple angles🛠 Compare with diagrams or OEM specs🛠 Don’t ignore your mechanic’s opinion (even if he’s grumpy)🛠 Don’t buy parts in a rush unless you absolutely must🛠 If it seems too cheap… it’s not a deal—it’s a trap

12: Trust, but Verify

The supplier’s job is to give you all the info. Your job is to use it wisely.

Even the best suppliers can’t predict the future. But if they give you all the history, and you ask the right questions, you’ll make a smart call.

If you’re ever in doubt—walk away. Better to lose a part than kill your machine.

And Now, a Word from the Real Pros (That’s Us)

At Vikfin, we take excavator parts seriously. Every part we sell is:

• Tested and verified

• Matched to your machine

• Backed by real humans who know their sh*t

We’ll give you:✅ Full part history✅ Condition reports✅ Honest answers✅ Help identifying the right part✅ Support if something goes wrong

You’re not just buying a part—you’re buying peace of mind. That’s worth more than “R5,000 cheaper.”

Recap: Spotting a Used Part’s Story Like a Pro

• Know the source of the part

• Check the hour history

• Ask for rebuild and test info

• Verify the part number

• Examine for wear or damage

• Ask all the right questions

• Buy from someone you trust

Treat used parts like Tinder dates. Swipe left if they give you bad vibes.

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Final Word: Know the Story Before You Buy the Part

You wouldn’t buy a used bakkie without checking the logbook, service history, and maybe giving it a test drive. So why treat your excavator any differently?

Every used part has a story. Your job is to find out whether it’s a war story… or a love story.

Want help decoding the past? Give us a shout at Vikfin. We’ll show you the receipts, the tests, and the history.

Because we don’t just sell parts. We sell the whole story.