How to Spot Quality Used Excavator Parts Before You Buy (Without Getting Screwed)

Let’s be honest: buying used excavator parts can feel a lot like online dating.

You scroll through the listings. Some parts look sexy in the photos. Others… not so much. A few claim to be “lightly used,” but when they show up, they’re missing teeth, leaking fluids, and smelling like disappointment.

But unlike a bad Tinder date, a dodgy excavator part can cost you serious money, time, and headaches on the job site.

So how do you tell the difference between a solid, battle-tested part and a piece of junk someone fished out of a scrap pile?

That’s what this blog is all about. Whether you’re a seasoned equipment operator, a construction company boss, or a weekend warrior with big machines and bigger dreams, here’s your no-BS guide to spotting quality used excavator parts before you part with your hard-earned cash.

1. Know What You Need (Don’t Be That Guy)

Before you even think about shopping, get specific.

You're not looking for “a final drive thingy” or “one of those bucket arm hydraulic doodads.” If you walk into a parts yard sounding like that, expect to get overcharged or laughed out of the yard.

Bring the exact part number. Better yet, bring the broken part with you, or photos of the part mounted on your machine. Year, make, model, serial number—get all that down.

Pro Tip: Manufacturers change parts mid-series. Just because your 2008 Volvo EC210B uses one final drive doesn’t mean your buddy’s 2008 EC210B uses the same one. Always double-check part numbers.

2. Give It the Look-Over (Trust, But Verify)

Here’s where you play detective.

You want to inspect the part like your life depends on it (because your job kinda does). Check for:

• Cracks or welds – A weld might be a sign of a previous break. Sometimes repairs are fine, sometimes they’re time bombs.

• Rust – A little surface rust? No biggie. Deep, flaky, red horror-film rust? Nope.

• Dents or distortions – If it looks like it got dropped off a skyscraper, walk away.

• Signs of abuse – Bent bolt holes, ground-off serial numbers, stripped threads. All bad news.

Pro Tip: Use a torch or flashlight to check internal wear. If it’s a gearbox or final drive, peek inside. If it looks like a metal blender's been living in there, run.

3. Feel Before You Deal (Wiggle It Just a Little Bit)

Grab the damn thing and give it a wiggle.

Bearings should roll smoothly. Shafts shouldn’t wobble. Gears shouldn’t have excessive play. Bushings and pins? Minimal movement.

If you hear grinding, crunching, or feel slop, that part’s been around the block—and not in a good way.

Warning Sign: If the part seller winces when you touch the item, like they’re hiding something… they probably are.

4. Ask for History (Used Doesn’t Mean Mystery)

A good used parts supplier keeps records.

Ask:

• Where did this part come from?

• How many hours were on the machine?

• Was it tested after removal?

• Any repairs or reconditioning done?

If they can’t answer—or if they say something like, “It came from a guy who knew a guy”—take that as your cue to walk away like you're leaving a dodgy secondhand mattress store.

At Vikfin, we track part history so you’re not playing roulette with your money. And if you buy from someone else, make sure they’re doing the same.

5. Check the Brand (Not All Parts Are Created Equal)

Some brands are tough as nails. Others… well, they’re basically mechanical tofu.

Stick to OEM parts or reputable aftermarket manufacturers. If it’s got a logo from some unknown outfit in a country you've never heard of, you’re probably rolling the dice.

OEM Pros:

• Perfect fit.

• Designed for your machine.

• Reliable lifespan.

Aftermarket Pros (from a legit source):

• Cheaper.

• Often just as good (sometimes better).

• Available when OEM isn’t.

Avoid: No-name knockoffs from shady importers. That $400 final drive might look like a bargain until it explodes in Week 2 and takes your undercarriage with it.

6. Look for Signs of Reconditioning (But Ask Who Did It)

A reconditioned part can be gold—if the reconditioning was done right.

Ask:

• Was it rebuilt by a professional?

• What components were replaced?

• Is there a test report or warranty?

A rebuilt hydraulic pump with new seals, tested pressure, and clean internals? Fantastic.

A pump cleaned with a garden hose and painted with nail polish? Not so much.

Pro Tip: A fresh coat of paint hides a multitude of sins. Don’t let shiny paint distract you from asking the tough questions.

7. Beware the Franken-Part (Mix-and-Match Madness)

Some sellers try to be clever by cobbling together parts from different machines.

That final drive might have a Cat casing, a Hitachi gear set, and a Komatsu sticker on it—congratulations, you've just bought the mechanical version of Frankenstein.

Unless you're buying from a reputable supplier who knows how to mix compatible internals, avoid anything that’s been “modified” or “customized.”

One Word: Compatibility.

8. Check for Compatibility (It’s Not Just About Fit)

Even if it physically fits, it doesn’t mean it will work right.

Torque specs, gear ratios, flow rates—all these matter. Using a non-matching swing motor might work for a day or two, but it’ll wear out fast or fry your hydraulics.

Always compare technical specs. If the part doesn’t match your machine’s performance requirements, it’s a mismatch waiting to happen.

9. Watch the Price (If It’s Too Good to Be True…)

Used parts should be cheaper than new—but not suspiciously cheap.

If everyone’s quoting you R15,000 for a travel motor and one guy offers it for R4,000, guess what? That’s not a deal. That’s a trap.

You’ll either:

• Receive junk,

• Never receive anything at all, or

• Receive the wrong part and get ghosted faster than your last date.

At Vikfin, we price things fairly. Not dirt cheap—but real value backed by real service.

10. Demand a Warranty (Even a Short One)

No warranty = no deal.

Even a 30-day startup warranty gives you time to test the part, install it, and make sure it doesn’t crap out the first time you dig a hole.

If the seller says, “No returns,” they’re telling you something loud and clear: They don’t believe in the quality either.

11. Ask Around (Reputation Is Everything)

In this business, reputation matters more than fancy logos.

Ask around:

• Who have others used?

• Who stands behind their parts?

• Who goes the extra mile to help you find what you need?

If a company’s name comes up again and again in a good way (like, say, Vikfin 👀), that’s a sign you’re dealing with pros—not cowboys selling scrap off a trailer.

12. Get Help from a Pro (Phone a Friend)

If you're unsure, get a second opinion.

Your mechanic, your operator, your cousin who’s been tearing down machines since the ’90s—bring someone who knows what they’re looking at.

Even better, deal with a parts supplier who knows their stuff and actually gives a damn.

13. Test It If You Can (Live Fire Drill)

For things like engines, pumps, final drives—ask if it was tested.

Better yet, ask to see the test video.

A reputable seller will often have a clip showing the part running, pressure-tested, or turning under load.

No video? No report? No go.

14. Don’t Forget the Small Stuff (Seals, Bolts, Hoses)

Sometimes it’s not the part—it’s the parts around the part.

Are seals included? Mounting bolts? Flanges? Hoses?

If you forget to ask and you get a naked gearbox with no bolts, you're headed back to the store—or worse, fabricating spacers and praying they hold.

Check what's included before you buy.

15. Trust Your Gut (But Bring Your Brain)

If something feels off, walk away.

• Is the seller dodging questions?

• Is the part in suspiciously pristine condition?

• Are there weird smells, stains, or stories?

Your gut is usually right—but back it up with logic, inspection, and good old-fashioned due diligence.

Final Thought: Used Doesn’t Mean Useless

Buying used excavator parts is one of the smartest ways to save cash and keep your machine running without selling a kidney.

But it’s only smart if you know what you’re doing (or you buy from someone who does).

At Vikfin, we’ve made a name by doing this right. We test, we inspect, we tell you the truth (even when it’s not what you want to hear). Because there’s nothing worse than watching a “bargain” part destroy your job site schedule.

So next time you're shopping for a used final drive, pump, boom cylinder, or even a humble track roller—remember this guide.

And if all else fails? Call us. We'll hook you up with the real deal.

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