Why Buying Cheap Can Cost You More in the Long Run

The Hidden Costs of Being a Tight-Arse with Your Excavator Parts

Let’s set the scene.

Your excavator's final drive just took a dump mid-job, your client is breathing down your neck, and the bank account looks like it’s on a starvation diet. So what do you do?

You hop online, punch in “cheap final drive,” and voilà! You find one at half the price of what your regular supplier quoted.

“Score!” you think, high-fiving yourself like a budget ninja.

Fast forward two weeks: the ‘cheap’ part failed, your jobsite is a mess, and your client is considering someone else.

Congratulations. That “saving” just cost you triple in downtime, repairs, and reputation.

Welcome to the dark, greasy underbelly of buying on price instead of value.

1: The Siren Call of “Cheap”

Because who doesn’t love a bargain?

We’re all wired to love discounts. It’s primal. Like spotting a kudu in the bush—we want to catch it before someone else does.

But here's the problem with cheap excavator parts: they’re usually cheap for a reason.

That reason could be:

• They’re knockoffs made with recycled Coca-Cola cans

• They’ve already failed once… or three times

• They’ve been “refurbished” with chewing gum and hope

If your supplier's price makes you pause and go, “How the hell are they even making money?”—the answer is: they’re not. You’re the product.

2: The True Cost of Downtime

Cheap part fails. Now your machine is taking a nap. Again.

Let’s say you saved R8,000 buying a budget swing motor. Nice.

But when it fails two days into a job:

• You lose R20,000 in downtime

• Your operators drink coffee and complain

• You scramble to source another part—fast

• You pay express courier fees to get it yesterday

• The client threatens to cancel the contract

Suddenly, your “saving” is bleeding cash from every orifice.

Machines don’t make money when they’re parked. And they don’t care how much you saved on parts. They only care whether they run.

In this business, uptime is everything.

3: Quality Isn’t Just a Buzzword

It’s the difference between “done” and “dead.”

Good suppliers (like us at Vikfin—yes, we’re tooting our horn again) test every major component. They know what condition it’s in. They don’t sell trash in a shiny box.

Cheap suppliers? Not so much.

The difference in quality might not be visible to the naked eye, but inside that final drive:

• Gears could be worn down

• Bearings might be Chinese New Year lucky packets

• Seals could leak faster than your uncle after a six-pack

Even a small drop in part quality can mean early failure, weird vibrations, and catastrophic damage elsewhere.

You don’t just risk one part—you risk your entire machine.

4: The Warranty You’ll Never See Again

“No returns, boss” = major red flag.

One of the biggest benefits of buying from a reputable supplier is getting a real warranty.

Cheap parts? You’re lucky if you get a WhatsApp message and a vague promise that “it should work, bru.”

When it fails (and it will), here’s what happens:

• You call the seller. They vanish like a magician.

• No refund. No return. No accountability.

• You now own a very expensive paperweight.

And let’s be honest—how many WhatsApp parts suppliers are issuing VAT invoices and warranty paperwork? Exactly.

If they don’t back the part, they’re not in business—they’re in escape rooms.

5: Hidden Costs That Sneak Up on You

Spoiler: They always show up after the sale.

Here’s a short list of the sneaky, creeping expenses cheap parts bring to the party:

• Extra labour to re-install when it fails

• Fluid contamination from junk seals

• Damage to nearby components (bad bearings chew up drive motors)

• Lost reputation if your machine craps out mid-job

• Stress, rage, and extra whiskey consumption

Sure, the part was half the price. But add up the chaos, and suddenly you’re paying more than a brand-new OEM replacement.

Sometimes, spending more upfront is the cheaper move long-term. Funny how that works, hey?

6: Resale Value—Or the Lack Thereof

Cheap parts now = resale regret later.

Think ahead. One day you’ll want to sell your excavator. The buyer will ask:

• “Has it been maintained with OEM or quality parts?”

• “Who supplied the components?”

• “Any history of dodgy repairs or breakdowns?”

You gonna look them in the eye and say, “Ja, I bought a bunch of parts off a guy in Springs who only answered on Thursdays”?

Didn’t think so.

Reputation follows machines. A solid maintenance history = higher resale value.

Slapping in budget bits is like putting retread tyres on a Ferrari and hoping no one notices.

7: The “I Told You So” From Your Mechanic

And it’ll be smug.

Let’s be real. Mechanics know the difference between good parts and garbage.

When you bring them a no-name-brand final drive, they don’t say anything. They just smirk.

Then, two weeks later, you’re back. And they hit you with the deathblow:

“I told you so.”

They’ve seen it a hundred times. And they’ll charge you double to fix your mistake—because now they have to undo the hack job and start over.

Do your mechanic (and your wallet) a favour: give them parts they don’t hate.

8: What “Cheap” Actually Looks Like

The anatomy of a bad buy.

Let’s break it down with a real-world example.

You buy:

• A budget final drive (R12,000)

• With no testing, no warranty

• From a guy who says “don’t worry, it works”

Result:

• It fails after 15 hours

• Your machine is out of action for 4 days

• You pay R5,000 for rush labour

• You spend R3,000 on extra transport and fluid

• You buy a second final drive—this time from a real supplier—for R18,000

Total cost of your R12k bargain: over R38,000

Do the maths. That’s one hell of a “discount.”

9: When to Save—and When to Spend

Because being cheap isn’t always bad… if you’re smart about it.

Here’s where saving makes sense:✅ Small, non-critical parts (covers, pins, clips)✅ Basic filters and hoses (as long as they’re spec’d correctly)✅ Components from trusted rebuilders

Here’s where you should never skimp:❌ Final drives❌ Swing motors❌ Hydraulic pumps❌ Engines❌ Anything deep inside the belly of your beast

If the failure of that part can sideline your machine or destroy another system—it’s not the place to cut corners.

10: So, What Should You Actually Look For?

Here’s a dead-simple checklist to avoid the “cheap trap”:

• ✅ Supplier reputation – Real business? Google reviews? Actual address?

• ✅ Testing and inspection – Was the part tested under pressure?

• ✅ Matching part numbers – Does it match your model and serial?

• ✅ Warranty policy – Can you return it? Do they guarantee it?

• ✅ Condition report – Any rebuild or wear data?

• ✅ Transparency – Are they open about part history?

And above all else: Trust your gut.

If something smells fishy—it’s probably not diesel.

Where to Buy Without Getting Burned

Hi. We're Vikfin.

We’ve been around a while. We know our stuff. We sell quality used and reconditioned excavator parts that:

• Have been tested

• Come with support

• Are matched to your machine

• Don’t come with mystery leaks and disappointment

Brands we work with: CAT, Volvo, Komatsu, Hitachi.

We’re based in SA. We ship fast. And if something’s not right, we make it right.

Because we’d rather keep you as a customer for life—not just one dodgy sale.

Recap: What “Cheap” Actually Costs You

• 💸 More money over time

• ⌛️ More downtime and stress

• 🤬 Angry clients and mechanics

• 🤡 A reputation for being that guy who buys junk

• ☠️ Possible machine damage or failure

Don’t be that guy.

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Final Thoughts: Stop Being Penny-Wise and Excavator-Stupid

At the end of the day, buying excavator parts isn’t a game. It's your business. Your livelihood. Your name on the line.

So before you chase the cheapest deal, ask yourself:

Do I want to save a few bucks now and pay a fortune later—or do I want to buy once, fit it, and get back to work?

Be smart. Buy quality. Stay operational.

Got a question or a weird part you can’t identify? Hit us up at Vikfin.

We don’t sell crap. We sell confidence.