Why Used Undercarriage Parts Can Be a Smart Buy (If You Know What to Look For)

How to Avoid Getting Dragged (Literally and Financially)

Let’s talk about the undercarriage—that grumpy, grease-soaked metal jungle that actually holds your excavator together. It’s like your machine’s legs. And if they collapse, you’re not going anywhere except the repair shop.

Now, new undercarriage parts? Sure, they’re shiny, they’re reliable, and they cost more than your cousin’s wedding. Used parts, on the other hand, can save you a truckload of money—if you know what to check before handing over your cash. If you don’t, you’re basically adopting a sick puppy with a fake vet report.

So, let’s break down the secrets to scoring solid used undercarriage parts without ending up with bent links, chewed sprockets, or rollers that sound like a bag of broken bolts.

🦵 The Undercarriage Lowdown

Before we go all CSI: Trackpad, here’s a quick refresher on what makes up your undercarriage:

• Track chains & shoes

• Track rollers (top and bottom)

• Idlers

• Sprockets

• Track adjusters

• Carrier rollers

All of these parts wear out eventually. Some faster than others. And they love doing it quietly—until one day your excavator is doing the Harlem Shake down a slope.

💰 Why Buy Used Undercarriage Parts at All?

Because money. That’s why.

Buying new is great if you’ve just won the Lotto or landed a fat government contract. But if you’re running a lean site, used parts can cut costs by up to 50–70%—without sacrificing performance.

IF—and this is a big, bold, all-caps IF—you inspect them properly.

🔍 Here’s What to Look for (and What to Avoid Like the Plague)

Let’s break it down piece by piece, with zero fluff and just enough sarcasm to keep you awake.

🔗 1. Track Chains: The Backbone of Traction

Track chains are expensive. And if they’re stretched, cracked, or warped, you might as well tie your excavator to a cow and hope for the best.

What to Check:

• Pin & bushing wear – Grab a caliper and measure the pitch. Too much wear? You’re throwing money away.

• Chain elongation – Measure the overall length of a few links. Compare to factory spec. If it’s long, it’s gone.

• Side play – Excessive side movement = loose links = early failure.

Avoid:

• Visible cracks

• “Square” chain links from years of abuse

• Chains with mismatched pins or home-job welds (someone got creative... don’t follow them)

🔩 2. Track Shoes: The Grip or the Slip

Shoes don’t usually wear as fast as the chains, but they take a beating. Bent shoes mean unbalanced traction and some very unhappy final drives.

What to Check:

• Straightness – Lay it flat. If it wobbles like a politician’s promise, it’s bent.

• Bolt holes – Elongated holes are a no-go.

• Grouser height – Worn down grousers = no grip = you’re skating on site.

Avoid:

• Shoes that look like they fought in a demolition derby

• Any signs of cracking or rewelds near bolt holes

• Mixed shoe types (yes, people do this)

🛞 3. Track Rollers: The Silent Killers

Bottom rollers keep your tracks grounded. Worn rollers lead to poor track tension, rough rides, and excess chain wear.

What to Check:

• Surface wear – Measure the diameter and compare it to OEM specs.

• Oil leaks – If there’s a weep, it’s likely going to fail soon.

• Sidewall damage – Look for pitting, chipping, or deep scoring.

Fun Fact:

Good rollers roll silently. Bad ones sound like a toolbox in a tumble dryer.

🔝 4. Carrier Rollers: The Overlooked Ones

These babies support the top side of the track. Most folks forget them, which is great—until the tracks sag like a broken trampoline.

What to Check:

• Free rotation

• Smooth surface

• No play in the shaft

Avoid:

• Excessive rust

• Bent brackets

• Any kind of noise on spin

🛞 5. Idlers: Don’t Get Pushed Around

Your idler keeps tension on the track. If it’s toast, your tracks go loose, skip teeth, or fall off completely. Cute on TikTok. Less so on site.

What to Check:

• Face wear – Shouldn’t look like a pancake

• Mount condition – No cracks or slop in the frame

• Spring recoil – If it moves like a sloth on benzos, it's done

⚙️ 6. Sprockets: Where Power Meets the Ground

The sprocket transfers your final drive torque to the tracks. A worn sprocket can shred even a brand-new chain.

What to Check:

• Tooth profile – They should look like shark fins, not shark victims

• Spacing – Measure pitch vs OEM specs

• No sharp edges or “hooking”

Pro Tip:

Run your finger along the teeth. If you slice it open, you’ve got a razor-sharp worn sprocket that’s begging to chew up your chain.

🧪 Tools You’ll Want

You don’t need an entire lab. Just some simple, cheap tools can save you thousands.

• Caliper or micrometer – For pin and roller diameter

• Straight edge – For checking bends in shoes or idlers

• Magnet + dye penetrant spray – For surface cracks

• Measuring tape – Track length, shoe width, etc.

Also bring a flashlight, some gloves, and the ability to say “nah” when something looks shady.

🛠️ Rebuildable or Run Away?

Not every used part is ready to go—but some can be refurbished affordably. Here’s a cheat sheet:

Condition	Rebuildable?	Worth It?
Minor wear, straight	✅ Yes	💸 Absolutely
Surface rust only	✅ Yes	💸 With cleanup
Leaking seal on roller	⚠️ Maybe	🧠 Depends on price
Cracks in shoe or idler	❌ No	🚫 Hard pass
Elongated bolt holes	❌ No	🚫 Walk away
Hooked sprocket teeth	❌ No	🚫 It’s done, mate

💡 How We Do It at Vikfin

You think we just throw dirty rollers in a crate and send them off? Hell no.

At Vikfin, we inspect, test, and clean every undercarriage part before it hits the shelf.

Our Process:

1. Pressure wash + degrease

2. Visual and micrometer inspection

3. Seal and bearing check

4. Fitment test where possible

We don’t sell you junk. We sell you job-ready parts, with no surprises, no headaches, and no “well, maybe it’ll last a month.”

🔥 Bonus Tip: Matching Parts Matters

You can't just slap any sprocket onto any machine and expect harmony. Tracks, chains, sprockets—they need to match in pitch and profile.

If you mismatch:

• Chains eat sprockets

• Rollers wobble

• Tracks jump off

• Your operator swears like a sailor

Need help matching parts across brands or models? That’s what we do. Call us, send us a part number, or even just a photo—we’ll help you cross-reference like a pro.

🤯 What Happens If You Buy Bad Parts?

It’s not just about wasting money. Bad undercarriage parts lead to:

• Uneven wear (domino effect across the whole undercarriage)

• Constant downtime

• Chain throw and machine instability

• Final drive damage

• Jobsite embarrassment (because nothing screams “rookie” like a derailed track mid-dig)

🧠 A Quick Field Checklist

Bring this when you're shopping for used undercarriage parts:

✔ Measure pin/bushing wear✔ Check for cracks or welds✔ Test roller spin and leaks✔ Compare sprocket tooth profile✔ Look for uniform shoe wear✔ Bring OEM specs if possible✔ Ask for inspection reports or service history✔ Don’t ignore your gut—if it feels wrong, walk

☎️ Why Smart Contractors Buy from Vikfin

Used undercarriage parts are an art and a science. Done right, you save a fortune. Done wrong, you’re flushing cash down a muddy trench.

At Vikfin, we’ve helped thousands of operators, contractors, and machine owners stay on track (literally) with:

• Inspected, tested parts

• Professional refurb services

• Expert advice on compatibility

• Access to rare OEM stock

• Fast shipping across South Africa

Need help with CAT, Komatsu, Hitachi, Volvo, or Doosan undercarriage parts? We’ve got you.

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Ready to gear up your excavator without getting gouged?Give Vikfin a shout—we’ll keep your machine moving and your wallet intact.