How to Check the Condition of a Used Final Drive Before Buying
- RALPH COPE

- 1 day ago
- 4 min read

(An educational, step-by-step guide for anyone purchasing used OEM final drives in South Africa)
A final drive isn’t just another excavator part.It’s the heart of your machine’s travel system — and one of the most expensive components you’ll ever replace.
Buying used OEM final drives is one of the smartest ways to save money… if you know how to check their condition properly.
Because let’s be honest:A final drive can look fine on the outside and still be an expensive disaster waiting to happen.
This blog breaks down exactly how to inspect, evaluate, and verify the condition of a used final drive before you hand over a cent.
Let’s get started.
1. Start With Identification: The OEM Part Number Matters
Before anything else, verify:
OEM brand (Volvo, CAT, Komatsu, Hyundai, Doosan, etc.)
exact part number
model compatibility
left vs right side
reduction ratio (very important)
generation/version (dash-3 vs dash-5 etc.)
If the seller cannot provide:
the part number
compatibility list
or a clear ID plate
Walk away.
OEM numbers remove 90% of the risk.
2. Visual Inspection: The First Layer of Clues
A quick visual check can reveal big problems.
Look for:
cracks in the housing
weld repairs (major red flag)
missing bolts or damaged threads
fresh paint hiding deeper issues
worn sprocket holes (on integrated drives)
damaged connectors or wiring (on travel motors with sensors)
A final drive should look used — not abused.
3. Check the Input Shaft and Mounting Flange
The input section of a final drive tells you a lot about its history.
Rotate the shaft:
It should turn smoothly without:
grinding
sticking
excessive stiffness
Wiggle the shaft gently:
Tiny movement is normal.Excessive play = worn bearings.
If the shaft feels loose, that final drive is already halfway dead.
4. Inspect the Gearbox Oil (If Accessible)
This is one of the best ways to judge internal condition.
Ask the seller to:
remove the inspection plug
drain a small amount of oil
Red flags in oil:
silver glitter → metal wear
thick black sludge → overheated oil
burnt smell → extreme internal friction
milky colour → water contamination
Oil never lies.If it looks bad, the gears and bearings inside are suffering.
5. Check for Metal on the Magnetic Plug
Nearly all final drives use a magnetic drain plug to catch metal particles.
If the plug shows:
a few tiny shavings — normal
a light paste — acceptable
chunks, flakes, or thick paste — walk away immediately
Heavy metal contamination = bearings and gears are eating themselves alive.
6. Rotational Smoothness Test
Rotate the sprocket hub by hand (or the flange if sprocket isn’t included).
It should feel:
smooth
consistent
stable
If it feels:
notchy
bumpy
gritty
uneven
The internal gears or bearings are damaged.
7. Check the Motor Port (Travel Motor Interface)
The motor side of the final drive should be clean and undamaged.
Look for:
broken bolt holes
gouged surfaces
damaged o-ring groove
uneven wear
oil seepage
If the mounting face is damaged, the motor will not seat properly — and you’ll end up with pressure loss or leaks.
8. Pressure Testing (The Gold Standard)
A proper used OEM supplier like Vikfin pressure-tests final drives before selling them.
During a pressure test, technicians verify:
reduction function
gear noise
bearing performance
oil movement
seal condition
If the seller doesn’t offer test results or refuses to test the drive:Don’t buy it.
Testing separates genuine used OEM quality from scrapyard gambling.
9. Seal and O-Ring Condition
Final drives rely heavily on seals.
Damaged or hardened seals lead to:
oil loss
water ingress
catastrophic bearing failure
Ask the seller:
have the seals been replaced?
are they OEM-spec?
Cheap aftermarket seals can ruin a good final drive.
10. Ask About the Machine it Came From
A good used OEM dealer keeps this info.
Important details include:
hours on the donor machine
reason for dismantling
model and serial number
working environment (mine, sandpit, construction site, quarry)
Final drives from mining machines usually have harder lives than drives from civil construction, even at the same hours.
11. Warranty or Guarantee
Even used parts should come with some form of guarantee.
Reputable suppliers like Vikfin typically provide:
limited test warranty
immediate operational guarantee
return/refund if incompatible
If a seller offers no guarantee, be cautious.
12. Compare Prices to Market Rates
Used OEM final drives sit in a certain price band.If the price is too low, the unit may be:
flooded
cracked
previously rebuilt poorly
internally damaged
misidentified
If the price is too high, you might as well buy rebuilt or new.
A quality supplier prices based on:
condition
testing
brand
demand
stock availability
13. Check for Superseded OEM Numbers
Sometimes the number on the final drive is outdated.
Ask if:
the number has been superseded
the replacement number is compatible
your machine requires the new version
Vikfin checks supersessions automatically — many private sellers do not.
14. Evaluate the Supplier
This might be the most important step.
Choose a seller who:
understands excavators
matches part numbers correctly
provides tests
inspects all stock
offers honest condition reports
responds quickly
has a reputation for quality OEM components
A great part from a shady supplier is still a bad buy.
Conclusion: Testing, Inspection, and OEM IDs Protect Your Pocket
A final drive is too expensive to buy blindly.
When you check:
OEM numbers
oil condition
magnetic plugs
seals
shaft play
rotational smoothness
pressure test results
…you ensure you’re getting a unit that will last, not a ticking time bomb.
Used OEM final drives from reputable suppliers like Vikfin give you:
long lifespan
excellent reliability
a fraction of new OEM cost
immediate availability
But only if inspected correctly.
Learn the checks.Protect your investment.Make your excavator work, not waste money.
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